Difference between revisions of "Taotao DB17 125cc Dirt Bike"
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NEW BIKE FIRST TIME OPERATION - Be sure to complete the five minute break in process described below. After that, the first few hours of operation should be easy riding, meaning, do not run the bike hard. Run at low speeds with very low loads for the first 2-4 hrs. | NEW BIKE FIRST TIME OPERATION - Be sure to complete the five minute break in process described below. After that, the first few hours of operation should be easy riding, meaning, do not run the bike hard. Run at low speeds with very low loads for the first 2-4 hrs. | ||
| + | |||
| + | This bike has three bolts that appear to look like oil plugs on the bottom. The one facing straight down on the clutch side is the oil drain plug. The angled plug on the left side of the engine is for the cam chain tensioner, you don't need to open that one up. | ||
===Oil=== | ===Oil=== | ||
| − | Two locations, engine and transmission ( | + | Two locations, engine and transmission (gearbox). |
* Engine - recommended to use oil with moly additive (Liqui Moly) Use 10w-40. | * Engine - recommended to use oil with moly additive (Liqui Moly) Use 10w-40. | ||
| − | * Transmission / Gearbox - | + | * Transmission / Gearbox - ( SHARED ) the gearbox oil comes from the same pan as the motor oil. No need to worry about filling a separate compartment with another type of oil on this bike. |
| + | * Use approx 2/3 of a quart of oil, maybe slightly less. | ||
| − | Comes new with oil in it. Verify oil at correct level. Run first time for five minutes, shut off and then change the oil prior to continued operation. If you want to be more cautious you can drain supplied oil, then add 10w-30 NON-SYNTHETIC oil for the five minute break in process. During the break in process the the cylinder rings should seat and this is better accomplished with conventional oil. After break-in you can use your synthetic oil at the heavier 10w-40. | + | Comes new with oil in it. Verify oil at correct level. Run first time for five minutes, shut off and then change the oil prior to continued operation. If you want to be more cautious you can drain supplied oil, then add 10w-30 NON-SYNTHETIC oil for the five minute break in process. During the break in process the the cylinder rings should seat and this is better accomplished with conventional oil. After break-in you ''can'' use your synthetic oil, however, there are many advisement against using synthetic oil in this bike. Use oil at the heavier 10w-40. You can use regular auto oil or that which is marked as motorcycle oil. |
If you run the engine prior to oil change it may make it easier to drain the oil as the liquid drains well when hot. However, use caution because this can | If you run the engine prior to oil change it may make it easier to drain the oil as the liquid drains well when hot. However, use caution because this can | ||
also present the risk of burns. Watch out! Don't drain hot oil directly onto skin. | also present the risk of burns. Watch out! Don't drain hot oil directly onto skin. | ||
| − | There are a couple drain plugs, one for the motor and one for the gearbox. When replacing motor oil also replace the oil filter. The engine oil plug is down by the magneto / stator. Some mechanics say it is not necessary to replace the filter each change, perhaps every other, that's up to you. | + | There are a couple drain plugs, one for the motor and one for the gearbox. When replacing motor oil also replace the oil filter. The engine oil plug is down by the magneto / [[stator]]. Some mechanics say it is not necessary to replace the filter each change, perhaps every other, that's up to you. |
Remove the oil filter slowly and observe the spring that will fly out if you are not paying attention. You'll have to keep it clean and place it back into place when you install the new filter. | Remove the oil filter slowly and observe the spring that will fly out if you are not paying attention. You'll have to keep it clean and place it back into place when you install the new filter. | ||
| Line 50: | Line 53: | ||
===Chain=== | ===Chain=== | ||
| − | |||
| − | |||
Use silicon based lubricant and spray into front of chain, turn wheel to coat entire chain. Don't use an oil lubricant as it will collect dirt. There are some wax based lubricants as well. | Use silicon based lubricant and spray into front of chain, turn wheel to coat entire chain. Don't use an oil lubricant as it will collect dirt. There are some wax based lubricants as well. | ||
| − | This bike has a tensioner on the underside of the chain | + | The Chain Drive is made up of the following: |
| + | * rear sprocket | ||
| + | * chain adjuster block | ||
| + | * chain guide | ||
| + | * chain slider | ||
| + | * chain roller / tensioner | ||
| + | |||
| + | This bike has a tensioner on the underside of the chain also known as the chain roller. The chain slack is likely in 1" to 1.5" slack at the middle of swingarm. The chain should have some slack however if it is too lose you will have failure. Use the Chain Adjuster Block to reduce tension on the chain if it is tight. New bike often has chain very tight. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Adjusting chain: | ||
| + | #Loosen the rear axle nut | ||
| + | #Loosen the lock nuts on both sides of the swing arm | ||
| + | #Turn the adjusting nuts on the right and left chain adjusters an equal number of turns to increase or decrease chain slack. | ||
| + | #Torque the rear axle nut to around 35 lb-ft | ||
| + | #Tighten the adjusting nuts lightly. Then, while holding the adjusting nuts with a wrench, tighten the lock nuts. | ||
| + | #Recheck drive chain slack. | ||
===Motor=== | ===Motor=== | ||
| Line 62: | Line 78: | ||
===Carburetor=== | ===Carburetor=== | ||
| + | The carburetor is often out of adjustment on a new bike. Many times the carburetor will leak gasoline. If gas overflows, set the float level. Stock float levels are also known to be out of adjustment sometimes. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Adjustment on bottom of carburetor bowl right side reduce fuel float adjustment stops fuel from coming out of the train hole on the bottom. Make minor adjust just until it quits. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Adjust idle screw on top of carburetor on right side. Set correct idle when bike is warmed up. | ||
| + | |||
| + | ===Rear Suspension=== | ||
| + | The Rear Shock Absorber on the Tao is a One-Way Adjustable Shock Absorber type with a double ring hand turn wheel at the bottom and a inert gas valve. | ||
| + | * Adjust spring by rings for pre-load using a spanner wrench. | ||
| + | * Add or reduce nitrogen gas from valve for hardness. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Use a C Spanner Tool. (spanner wrench) or in a pinch a pipe wrench will work but can mar up the rings. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Uses a 10.5" Inch Rear Black Mono Shock Spring 980lbs | ||
| + | |||
| + | ==Parts== | ||
| + | Fuel Tank Valve / Petcock for DB 17<BR> | ||
| + | [[File:taotaodb17fuelshutoffvalve.jpg]] | ||
| + | * [https://partskit.com/product/104324-1 partskit.com : SKU - 104324-1] | ||
| + | * [https://xgatorparts.com/product/myk-fuel-tank-valve-petcock-fits-tao-tao-db17-and-many-other-models/ xgatorparts.com : misc parts] | ||
| + | |||
| + | front forks | ||
| + | *9 -103932- Full Cover Suspension (Pair) 27x505mm for DB 14 and more | ||
| + | *10 -103932- Full Cover Suspension (Pair) 27x505mm for DB 14 and more | ||
| + | *SKU: 103933 | ||
| + | * https://partskit.com/collections/db17/products/spring-coil-suspension-pair-db-17 | ||
==Resources== | ==Resources== | ||
Latest revision as of 18:43, 5 March 2024
Tao Tao / TaoTao / Tao-Tao Pit Bike and Dirt Bike
Model DB17 - 125cc motor - Youth Dirt Bike
Contents
Specifications
Engine
Engine Type:4 Stroke, Single Cylinder Displacement:125cc Ignition:CDI Starter:Kick Start Cooling:Air Cooled
Drive Train
Transmission:4-speed (1-N-2-3-4) Manual Clutch Drive System:Chain
Chassis / Suspension / Brakes
Front Brake:Hydraulic Disc --- Hand Braker Rear Brake:Hydraulic Disc --- Foot Braker Front Tire:70/100 - 17 Rear Tire:90/100 - 14
Dimensions / Capacities
Length:70 inches Width:30 inches Height:43 inches Wheelbase:49.2 inches Seat Height:30.70 inches Ground Clearance:13.0 inches Net Weight:154 lbs Gross Weight:200 lbs Fuel Capacity:1.5 gal
Maintenance
NEW BIKE FIRST TIME OPERATION - Be sure to complete the five minute break in process described below. After that, the first few hours of operation should be easy riding, meaning, do not run the bike hard. Run at low speeds with very low loads for the first 2-4 hrs.
This bike has three bolts that appear to look like oil plugs on the bottom. The one facing straight down on the clutch side is the oil drain plug. The angled plug on the left side of the engine is for the cam chain tensioner, you don't need to open that one up.
Oil
Two locations, engine and transmission (gearbox).
- Engine - recommended to use oil with moly additive (Liqui Moly) Use 10w-40.
- Transmission / Gearbox - ( SHARED ) the gearbox oil comes from the same pan as the motor oil. No need to worry about filling a separate compartment with another type of oil on this bike.
- Use approx 2/3 of a quart of oil, maybe slightly less.
Comes new with oil in it. Verify oil at correct level. Run first time for five minutes, shut off and then change the oil prior to continued operation. If you want to be more cautious you can drain supplied oil, then add 10w-30 NON-SYNTHETIC oil for the five minute break in process. During the break in process the the cylinder rings should seat and this is better accomplished with conventional oil. After break-in you can use your synthetic oil, however, there are many advisement against using synthetic oil in this bike. Use oil at the heavier 10w-40. You can use regular auto oil or that which is marked as motorcycle oil.
If you run the engine prior to oil change it may make it easier to drain the oil as the liquid drains well when hot. However, use caution because this can also present the risk of burns. Watch out! Don't drain hot oil directly onto skin.
There are a couple drain plugs, one for the motor and one for the gearbox. When replacing motor oil also replace the oil filter. The engine oil plug is down by the magneto / stator. Some mechanics say it is not necessary to replace the filter each change, perhaps every other, that's up to you.
Remove the oil filter slowly and observe the spring that will fly out if you are not paying attention. You'll have to keep it clean and place it back into place when you install the new filter.
Add oil quantity according to operating manual, do not overfill.
Chain
Use silicon based lubricant and spray into front of chain, turn wheel to coat entire chain. Don't use an oil lubricant as it will collect dirt. There are some wax based lubricants as well.
The Chain Drive is made up of the following:
- rear sprocket
- chain adjuster block
- chain guide
- chain slider
- chain roller / tensioner
This bike has a tensioner on the underside of the chain also known as the chain roller. The chain slack is likely in 1" to 1.5" slack at the middle of swingarm. The chain should have some slack however if it is too lose you will have failure. Use the Chain Adjuster Block to reduce tension on the chain if it is tight. New bike often has chain very tight.
Adjusting chain:
- Loosen the rear axle nut
- Loosen the lock nuts on both sides of the swing arm
- Turn the adjusting nuts on the right and left chain adjusters an equal number of turns to increase or decrease chain slack.
- Torque the rear axle nut to around 35 lb-ft
- Tighten the adjusting nuts lightly. Then, while holding the adjusting nuts with a wrench, tighten the lock nuts.
- Recheck drive chain slack.
Motor
The new bike has the valves adjusted closed. You will have to make adjustment to specification in the owner manual.
- Valve Lash setting (.003 intake and .004 exh)
Carburetor
The carburetor is often out of adjustment on a new bike. Many times the carburetor will leak gasoline. If gas overflows, set the float level. Stock float levels are also known to be out of adjustment sometimes.
Adjustment on bottom of carburetor bowl right side reduce fuel float adjustment stops fuel from coming out of the train hole on the bottom. Make minor adjust just until it quits.
Adjust idle screw on top of carburetor on right side. Set correct idle when bike is warmed up.
Rear Suspension
The Rear Shock Absorber on the Tao is a One-Way Adjustable Shock Absorber type with a double ring hand turn wheel at the bottom and a inert gas valve.
- Adjust spring by rings for pre-load using a spanner wrench.
- Add or reduce nitrogen gas from valve for hardness.
Use a C Spanner Tool. (spanner wrench) or in a pinch a pipe wrench will work but can mar up the rings.
Uses a 10.5" Inch Rear Black Mono Shock Spring 980lbs
Parts
Fuel Tank Valve / Petcock for DB 17
front forks
- 9 -103932- Full Cover Suspension (Pair) 27x505mm for DB 14 and more
- 10 -103932- Full Cover Suspension (Pair) 27x505mm for DB 14 and more
- SKU: 103933
- https://partskit.com/collections/db17/products/spring-coil-suspension-pair-db-17
Resources
Here are a few links for assembly info and oil change info for the Dirtbike.
- SR125 Assembly Instructions - This particular assembly video most closely matches the Taotao bike
- SSR 125 Pit Bike Oil Change Tutorial - Mute audio, it's just obnoxious music!
