Talk:2009 Jeep Wrangler JK
alarm info
SECURITY ALARM SYSTEM — IF EQUIPPED
This system monitors the vehicle doors, liftgate, liftgate flipper glass, and ignition for unauthorized operation. When the alarm is activated, the system provides both audible and visual signals. The horn will sound repeatedly for three minutes and the headlights and taillights will flash for an additional 15 minutes.
To Set the Alarm
The alarm will set when you use the remote keyless entry transmitter to lock the doors and liftgate or when you use the power door lock switch while the door is open. After all the doors are locked and closed, a red light on top of the instrument panel will flash rapidly for about 16 seconds to signal that the system is arming. During this 16 second pre-arm period, opening any door or the liftgate will cancel the arming. If the system successfully arms, the red light will flash at a slower rate to indicate the alarm is set.
To Disarm the System
To disarm the system, use the remote keyless entry transmitter or the key to unlock the driver’s door. If something has triggered the system in your absence, the horn will sound three times when you unlock the doors. Check the vehicle for tampering.
The Security Alarm System is designed to protect your vehicle; however, you can create conditions where the system will arm unexpectedly. If you remain in the vehicle and lock the doors with the transmitter, once the system is armed (after 16 seconds), when you pull the door handle to exit the alarm will sound. If this occurs, press the “Unlock” button on the remote keyless entry transmitter to disarm the system. You may also accidentally disarm the system by unlocking the driver’s door with the key and then locking it. The door will be locked but the Security Alarm will not arm.
How do I fully disable the alarm/ theft system
http://www.wranglerforum.com/search.php?searchid=85328729
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/how-do-i-fully-disable-the-alarm-theft-system-1738889.html
winter snow and mud tire
https://www.amazon.com/Goodyear-Wrangler-DuraTrac-Radial-LT285/dp/B004QL66DE
guide
https://www.cjponyparts.com/resources/wrangler-tire-buying-guide
Tires
General Grabber X3 Mud Tires *** Mastercraft Courser MXT Mud Tires **** Mudclaw Extreme MT Mud Tires *** Toyo Open Country M/T Mud Tires ** BF Goodrich All Terrain T/A KO2 All Terrain ** Nitto Exo Grappler AWT All Terrain *** Toyo Open Country R/T Hybrid **
7.5JJx17 ET44.5
over inflation almost never causes tire failure
Bill Woehrle tire engineer, and now runs a company called TFI: Tire Forensics Investigation
Bill says that overinflation almost never causes tire failure. The standard tire is inflated to about 30 to 35 pounds per square inch. Under hot weather and highway conditions, the temperature of the air inside the tire rises about 50 degrees. That increases the pressure inside the tire about 5 psi. The burst pressure of a tire is about 200 psi.
Bill says that the most vulnerable part of any steel-belted radial tire is where the steel belts are attached to the rubber near the edges of the tread, also called the “shoulders” of the tire. If the tire is not abused, those belts should stay attached to the rubber for the entire tread life of the tire.
But if the tire is defective (see Firestone debacle) at the end of its useful life, or if the tire has been abused in some way, the top belt can separate. When it tears, it tears violently, so it’s a crapshoot as to whether the next layer of rubber will tear too and cause a blowout. And the most common form of abuse is underinflating your tires. That’s right, UNDERinflating them.
Woehrle says that underinflating the tire puts additional stress on the tire’s shoulders, where the belts are attached. And if a tire is underinflated by 10 or 15 psi, the temperature at those shoulders can reach 200 degrees. So you’ve got a vulnerable part of the rubber that’s hot being stretched and pulled, and that’s a recipe for tire failure.
By the way, overloading the car with say, luggage or two mothers-in-law does the same thing as underinflating the tires. It stresses the shoulders of the tires.
So Bill says if you’re going to make a mistake in inflating your tires, it’s much better to overinflate them a bit than underinflate them. There are really no horrible ramifications of overinflating the tires by 10 or 15 psi, except that when you go over bumps you’ll bounce up and hit your head on the dome light.
But the dangers of underinflation are catastrophic tire failure. So for all of our readers: Make sure your tires have sufficient tread and have not exceeded the manufacturer’s mileage rating. Make sure they’re less than 10 years old, even if they have low miles (because old rubber gets brittle and has a greater tendency to crack). And check your tire pressure at least once a month to make sure your tires aren’t underinflated.
source: https://www.denverpost.com/2007/09/29/can-tire-pressure-rise-on-its-own/
How do you reset the TPMS on a Jeep JK?
Locate the TPMS reset button under the steering wheel and press in, holding until the tire pressure light blinks three times. Start the car and wait 20 minutes for the sensor to refresh. Inflate all tires to 3 PSI over their recommended amount, then deflate them completely.
Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS)
Sometimes even after inflating your tires the tire pressure light remains on. It’s important to reset this light so that your tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) can keep you alert and aware of possible issues with your wheels.
Resetting Your Tire Pressure Light
While the tire pressure light should turn off on its own after properly inflating your tires, there are additional steps available for a reset if needed:
- For about 10 minutes, drive at or above 50 mph. The next time you restart your car, it’s likely the sensor will reset.
- Turn the key to the “On” position, but don’t start the car. Locate the TPMS reset button under the steering wheel and press in, holding until the tire pressure light blinks three times. Start the car and wait 20 minutes for the sensor to refresh.
- Inflate all tires to 3 PSI over their recommended amount, then deflate them completely. Be sure to include the spare tire, as it may have a sensor as well. Once they’re all deflated, re-inflate to the recommended tire pressure.
- With the vehicle off, use a wrench to disconnect the positive battery cable. Turn the car on and honk the horn for about three seconds. This will discharge any power still stored in the vehicle. Then reconnect the battery.
If your TPMS light is still on, you should definitely bring it in for a diagnosis.
rolling door lock aka asshole design to lock people out of their own vehicle and strand them.
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/disabling-door-auto-lock-feature-378255/
SCAN TOOL PROGRAMMING
When using the scan tool, select:
1. “Theft Alarm” 2. “VTSS” 3. “Miscellaneous” and then the desired function.
CUSTOMER PROGRAMMING
1. Open the driver door, sit in the driver seat, and close the driver door. 2. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position (without starting the vehicle) and then back to OFF. Repeat this step three additional times (for a total of four key ON/OFF cycles). 3. Within 10 seconds of switching the ignition switch to the OFF position for the last time (at the end of the fourth cycle in the above step), press the driver interior door lock switch to LOCK. 4. A single chime will be heard to verify that the customer programmable toggle of the rolling door locks was successfully completed.
Steps 2 and 3 must be completed within 10 seconds.
NOTE: When toggling the rolling door locks (customer programmable), the toggle that happens will be from the last state of the rolling door locks. If the rolling door locks were enabled, after the toggle process, they will now be disabled and vice versa. There is no telltale to inform you of which state the rolling door locks are in.
Motor Oil
Mopar Motor Oil Product List Price: $9.52 Part Number: W0133-3646708 Notes: Conventional - Standard Mineral Based - Meets OE Specification Product Remark: 5W-20 Max Pro - 1 Quart OEM
Mopar Motor Oil Product List Price: $9.52 Part Number: W0133-1979951 Notes: Conventional - Standard Mineral Based - Meets OE Specification Detailed Notes: 5W-20 Mineral Based 1QT; Chrysler Spec: MS-6395; Rating API SM Energy Conserving, ILSAC GF-5. This product exceeds requirements for API Certified SN engine oils. Product Remark: 5W-20 Max Pro - 1 Quart OEM
Battery
Battery: 34 Group Size, Top Post.
recommend 800 CCA, 1000 CA, 110 Minute Reserve Capacity, Maximum Starting Power
Stuck in 4wd and the shifter is loose
reference: https://www.jkowners.com/threads/help-stuck-in-4wd-and-the-shifter-is-loose.31044/
Discussion Starter · #1 · Jun 12, 2010
I hope something just came un hooked.
I had the console propped up rather than taking it completly out as i was coating the floor with bedliner. Now I put it back together and im stuck in 4 wheel drive. Not only that but the 4 wheel drive shifter is loose. It will go forward and back but i can tell its like its not connected to anything
Have I just un hooked the linkage or something? I dont know where to check/what to check. Does the console just snap together other than the screws holding it together at the back on the sides?
I kinda need the Jeep tonight so hopefully somebody can help me out.
Thanks in advance
jeepboy
- 2 · Jun 12, 2010
Check your cable at the transfer case linkage on the left side and see if the cable has popped off. If it has, pop it back on and use a small tie strap on the outside of the linkage to secure.
tkob1060
- 3 · Jun 12, 2010
I believe there is a connection under the console also, the console comes off in 5 minutes with 4 screws, write up here, though popping the tcase shift know off now might be a little harder with it flopping loose. http://jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11960
rob4607
- 4 · Jun 12, 2010
It's a hell of alot easier to crawl under and feel for the cable dangeling than removing all that stuff, specially since the mass concensus has had the connector pop off/brek at the xfer linkage itself.
Crawl under after it has cooled off on the drivers side, reach up and follow the cables back and one will be disconnected. You can put it back on without the snap bushing to be able to put it in two wheel drive or if your hands are strong enough you can flick it to the correct position.
When you have them order the snap bushings get extra ones for the glove box since they are only about .40 cents each.
I still think a aftermarket connection device needs to be developed, I would prefer a cable with metal ring ends and not plastic. Sometimes when you REALLY need 4wd and specially 4low it's not always in the cards to be "rolling" to softly engage it like a soccer mom. It needs to be like my pecker so I can jerk on it when the need arises!
tkob1060
- 5 · Jun 12, 2010 (Edited)
Did you read that part? he did NOT do it while out wheelin. I'm pretty sure others have broken the linkage under the console, unless that was just for the auto shifter.
Sunburst Sahara
Discussion Starter · #6 · Jun 12, 2010
thanks guys ill check it out.
yeah i was in the driveway not out wheeling :laughing:
No more Jeep :bawling: Save Share Reply S Sunburst Sahara · Registered Joined Jan 23, 2010 · 765 Posts Discussion Starter · #7 · Jun 13, 2010 ok i felt around under the jeep and found the cable. Got it back where its supposed to be, now how do i keep it there for good or is this going to be an ongoing problem.
Is the "snap bushing" They white colored plastic bits that were torn up on the stud that the cable end slides over? Can I get these at a parts store or am I going to have to get them from the dealer?
Thanks guys for the help. Sucks though because now Im soaking wet since its pouring rain and I dont have a garage. Somehow dripping water off of a vehicle allways manages to find either my eye or my ear. :pissed:
Now its time for a beer!
No more Jeep :bawling: Save Share Reply Mr.RonGilbert Mr.RonGilbert · Registered Joined Feb 14, 2009 · 9,137 Posts
- 8 · Jun 13, 2010
A small zip tie and pick up a spare clip at the stealership. Cheap insurance.
Can Pro-zak get those?....
Save Share Reply tkob1060 tkob1060 · Registered Joined Jun 20, 2009 · 7,277 Posts
- 9 · Jun 13, 2010
I just thought of something why did you put it in 4wd in the driveway? :laughing:
glad you got it back on, its a common problem on the jk
A LITTLE GIRL NEEDS YOUR HELP CLICK HERE
She still needs your help in 2011 click HERE
Dancin Dan;942827 said: A Jeep just zipped past my house and I could swear I heard the driver yellin:
"The tkob is coming!! The tkob is coming!!" Click to expand...
Save Share Reply S Sunburst Sahara · Registered Joined Jan 23, 2010 · 765 Posts Discussion Starter · #10 · Jun 13, 2010 i put it in 4 lo and 4th to have more room to prop up the console while i bedlined the floor rather than removing the console
No more Jeep :bawling: Save Share Reply SoK66 SoK66 · Registered Joined May 6, 2009 · 4,161 Posts
- 11 · Jun 13, 2010
The push-on clip at the transfer case lever has probably broken. (It's an utter POS design, thanks again, Chrysler.) Get a couple new ones from the dealer.
FWIW, I took a new one, carefully sliced the end off and used an "E" clip pushed on over the pin on the transfer case lever as a retainer. No more trouble.
'09 JKRU. 4" Teraflex long arm, Teraflex R44 housing, Teraflex / Fox Resis, Poly Performance skids, Nemesis Billy Rockers, Nemesis flares, 37" ATZ P3s on 17" 5x5.5" Trailready HDs, Spyntec hubs, Teraflex BBK, Mopar BBK master/booster, Superior front & Alloy USA rear axle shafts, CTMs, Reids, Synergy drag link & tie rod, WTOR hydro-boosted steering, 5.38s, TF Dual Rate front bar, TF bumpers, Warn Powerplant, Tom Woods shafts, AA xfer case cable, Kilby canister relo, RH4x4 cage. Save Share Reply R rob4607 · Registered Joined Apr 3, 2009 · 2,721 Posts
- 12 · Jun 14, 2010
Sorry, foggy from all the darvocet. Don't know how missed that.
2008 JK 4Dr Rubicon Stone white Mygig W/Uconnect working. Hard top/Auto tranny First mod, dog slobber. Painted hard top Spidertraxx 1.5 spacers Teraflex 3" lift Currie front lower control arms JKS front and rear adj. track bars Euroefx HID kit, high/low beam and fogs Shrockworks rear full width, tire carrier
Post count from the "other" place when i was following the "herd" was 692 on 4-2-09, not a noob...
- stirthepot:
Save Share Reply S Sunburst Sahara · Registered Joined Jan 23, 2010 · 765 Posts Discussion Starter · #13 · Jun 25, 2010 Well I got it fixed. The parts guy was totally lost because there wasnt a picture of the part so he ordered two different ones that didnt have pics to see which one it was, even though I told him it was the transfer case cable retainer (or whatever it was actually called)
I pulled the Jeep up on my block/ramps and unbolted the skid plate and that made it really easy to pop the piece in the cable and slide it on.
It broke me up though, I got two of them for a whole $0.64 :laughing:
Parts guy said it was the cheapest thing hes ever sold.
On a side note, while I was there a lady came in who had bought spark plugs for her truck, got them home and they were used plugs :shaking: They were speachless but gave her a refund and the parts manager got to go back and check ALL of the spark plugs :laughing:
No more Jeep :bawling: Save Share Reply 1 - 13 of 13 Posts Join the discussion
Rim details:
Rim details:
- 7.5JJx17 ET44.45
- 17x7.5 ET44.45 5x127
- Bolt Pattern: 5x5 PCD: 5' (or 127 mm)
- PCD 5x127
- lug thread: M14 x 2.00
- lug thread pitch: 2.00
- Center bore: 71.5 mm
- lug torque: 130 Nm
LUG PATTERN METRIC 5x127mm, LUG PATTERN INCHES 5x5 in, STUD SIZE 1/2x20, HUB/CENTER BORE 71.5
info from back of rim
501 51649 DI IBZ81TRMAD CHINA M2 44 45 OFFSET
Dealing With Swelled Lug Nuts
On a lot of vehicles made during the past 20 years, the manufacturer used a two-piece lug nut that has a chrome cap over the steel lug nut. On the new car lot, these look good on a nice set of alloy wheels. But, in as little as three years, the lug nuts could swell and make removal difficult.
The problem with these lug nuts is that water and salt gets between the nut and cap. The resulting corrosion causes the cap to swell and change the outer diameter of the nut. For the driver, this often means the lug wrench in the trunk will no longer fit when they need to change a tire by the side of the road.
For a technician, it could mean extra time and tools to remove the lug nut. It is not impossible, but the key is to identify the problem before you make it worse. The rookie mistake is to grab the next larger size socket and use an impact wrench. This method can dislodge the chrome cap, but it can also round off the harder nut under it. Senior technicians know that not too many lug nuts come in 18mm, 20mm or 22mm sizes, so if they feel resistance when trying to get the socket over a lug nut, they put down the impact before they make it worse. The impact is a great time saver, but it lacks the feel and overall torque of a good breaker bar. A good technician also knows the feel of a properly engaged nut and socket with a breaker bar better than an electric or pneumatic impact.
Some technicians have purchased over-sized sockets in 19.5mm and 21.5mm size to remove swelled lug nuts. Some technicians have had luck with 12-point sockets in 11/16” and 3/4” sizes. Using these slightly oversized sockets involves hammering the socket over the swelled lug nut and using a breaker bar. Unfortunately, sometimes the lug nut then becomes permanently lodged in the socket and won’t come out.
The worst-case scenario is that a previous technician damaged the lug nuts with his impact and now you have to deal with it. In these cases, a drill bit or rotary broach bit might be your only solution.
This problem is prevalent in some Jeep, Toyota, Ford, Chrysler, and Dodge models.
This problem is prevalent in some Jeep, Toyota, Ford, Chrysler, and Dodge models.
As an example, a twenty-one-millimeter lug nut can grow to twenty-two millimeters when it swells. This becomes a problem when you have to change tires on the fly and your lug wrench doesn’t fit around the nut anymore. Severe corrosion can cause the chrome cover to fall off and expose the steel nut underneath. You can end up stranded on the side of the road if you can’t remove the lug nuts to change a flat tire.
Swollen lug nuts has been a common problem since the invention of the two-piece capped lug nut. The problem occurs when moisture infiltrates the space between the chrome decorative cap and the actual steel lug nut securing the wheel to the vehicle.
To really fix the problem, you can purchase a solid chrome replacement lug nut. Although they are different in appearance, they will resolve the issue of the separating lug nuts.
When purchasing replacement solid lug nuts, know the hex size of your lug wrench. There are many different replacements available and sometimes you may have to go with a standard size hex like 13/16” rather than the factory 19mm metric hex size. In this instance, if you have a get a flat and have to use the manufacturers supplied lug wrench, you may be in big trouble.
The lug nuts themselves are steel, but they're covered in a thin chrome veneer.
If you go with the solid lug nut replacement, make sure they are long enough and have the correct size hex for your lug wrench. It will save you tons of aggravation in case of a flat on the road.
You can eliminate the possibility of swollen lug nuts by paying a little extra for chrome-plated or stainless steel nuts. Those shiny finishes replace the caps that are attached to most nuts, but they cost more.
Swollen lug nuts
Swollen lug nuts — What causes lug nuts to swell and how to remove them
What is an acorn lug nut?
An acorn style lug nut protects against water intrusion into the threads. That feature, by itself is a great idea. But there are two ways to make an acorn style lug nut: 1) weld a steel cap over the end of the lug nut prior to chrome plating the entire lug nut, OR, 2) form a thin aluminum cap over the steel lug nut.
The first method is more expensive and adds weight to the vehicle. The second method is less expensive and lighter, but cause problems down the road, and that problem is referred to as swollen lug nuts.
What causes swollen lug nuts ?
Rust Jacking. As steel rusts forms, it expands outward with great force. Rust jacking develops enough force to distort the aluminum shell that was formed around the steel lug nut. At that point the 21mm socket not longer fits properly on the lug nut.
The shop is faced with using a lug nut removal socket which damages the stripped lug nut with cap lug nut or, in extreme cases, they must use a hammer and chisel to peel off the cap.
How to prevent swelling
There is no way to prevent capped lug nuts from rusting.
The only way to prevent lug nuts from rusting and swelling is to replace them with solid acorn lug nuts. Solid lug nuts are available online. Just make sure you buy the correct thread size and taper to fit your wheels.
How to remove swollen lug nuts
There are three ways to remove swollen lug nuts
Method 1— Buy half-sized sockets
Buy a 19.5mm or a 21.5mm socket to fit over the swollen lug nuts
Method 2 — Buy stripped lug nut removal sockets
Method 3 — Chisel off the formed cap and use a regular socket
Use a small cold chisel and ball peen hammer and chisel off the acorn cap. Then slice down the sides of the lug nut and peel the thin metal away from the hex nut until you can fit a socket over the steel lug nut.
There should be a recall or a lawsuit.
I ordered a lug nut buster (Irwin Tools 53911 Irwin Industrial Tool Co Extractor 17mm )
Scott Dunkley
1 post · Joined 2019
- 8 · Jan 6, 2020 I just had to replace ALL of the lug bolts on my wifes 2017 renegade. The garage wouldnt rotate my tires. Every single oem lug bolt was swollen. I ordered a lug nut buster (Irwin Tools 53911 Irwin Industrial Tool Co Extractor 17mm ) and a set of 20 12x1.25 Wheel Lug 17mm Studs . I used a breaker bar to get them out. what a PITA. I live in the northeast, so lots of rain snow, ice, salt.
There should be a recall or a lawsuit.
Death Wobble
On a stock jeep you have to replace the steering stabilizer shock that you can only get through the jeep dealer.
Bad track bar mount - The bolt wiggles around inside the hole mounts for the track bar.
- tire rod ends
- steering stabilizer
- track bar bushings
- control arm bushings
The death wobble is a typical issue on these jeep and 9 out of 10 its the track bar .
But could be other steering and suspension parts .
Attached is a diagram of the parts you need to check .
Jeep with wheel in the direction of forward .then from under the front look at the parts i've marked with white arrows .
Now one needs to sit in the driver's seat and rock the steering wheel left and right , and you check the parts .
For further assistance with this issue please get back to me with the reply box below . This is not a one answer and done i will stay with you until the problem is sorted out . Please do not forget to leave positive feedback by clicking on the 3 to 5 stars at the top of your page, i'm not employees of the site and get no credit for spending time with you unless you leave positive feedback. Before rating 1 to 2 stars please get back to me as i'm here to help you, if i can't or you think i can't i will opt out or you can opt me out so another expert can. I want to help you with your problem and make you a happy motorist
Death Wobble Part 2
Typical Components to Replace for Death Wobble in 2009 Jeep Wrangler JKBased on extensive research from Jeep forums, automotive repair guides, and Mopar OEM parts catalogs, death wobble in the 2009 JK is most commonly addressed by replacing worn front suspension and steering components that allow excessive play or vibration. The primary culprits are loose or degraded bushings, joints, and linkages in the front end. Replacing these with higher-quality aftermarket options (e.g., greasable, heavy-duty versions from brands like Teraflex, Rough Country, or Spicer) is a standard rebuild approach, often followed by a professional alignment and tire balance check.Here's a bullet list of the key components typically requiring replacement, prioritized by frequency mentioned in sources (e.g., track bar first, as it's implicated in ~90% of cases). I've included common names and OEM part numbers where available from Mopar references for the 2007-2018 JK platform (superseding numbers used for accuracy).
- Front Track Bar: Connects the axle to the frame to maintain alignment; worn bushings or bolts cause lateral play. OEM Part #: 52059982AG
- Track Bar Bushings: Rubber isolators at track bar ends that degrade and allow slop. Often replaced with the full bar; specific OEM bushing kits are rare, but frame-side bushing is included in 52059982AG assembly.
- Steering Stabilizer (Damper): Hydraulic shock that dampens steering vibrations; fails to absorb bumps leading to oscillation. OEM Part #: 52060058AF
- Tie Rod Ends (Outer, Left and Right): Pivoting connections from tie rod to steering knuckles; wear causes loose steering. OEM Part #: 52060051AG (Left), 52060052AG (Right)
- Drag Link (Upper Steering Link): Connects steering gear to passenger-side knuckle; binds or loosens over time. OEM Part #: 52060049AE (end/tie rod style; full link is 52088424AA)
- Upper Ball Joints (Left and Right): Pivot points in upper control arms; dry out and seize. Included in OEM Kit Part #: 68004085AA (covers 2 upper/2 lower)
- Lower Ball Joints (Left and Right): Pivot points in lower control arms/knuckles; high-stress wear items. Included in OEM Kit Part #: 68004085AA
- Front Upper Control Arm Bushings: Rubber mounts in upper arms that crack and shift. OEM Part #: 52060138AA (axle-side; frame-side similar)
- Front Lower Control Arm Bushings: Isolators in lower arms for fore/aft stability. OEM Part #: 68234482AA (set; often replaced with full arm 52059979AF for ease)
Notes: Start with inspection/tightening of all bolts (e.g., 18mm track bar bolts often loosen). A full rebuild kit (e.g., 8-10 piece sets) is common for ~$300-600 in aftermarket parts. After replacement, get a 4-wheel alignment to correct caster (aim for 4-7 degrees) and ensure no imbalance. Sources confirm these fixes resolve 95%+ of cases; if persistent, check tire balance or wheel bearings. Consult a mechanic for torque specs (e.g., track bar at 130 ft-lbs).
Recommended Aftermarket Death Wobble Fix for 2009 Jeep Wrangler JK
All parts are compatible with your 2009 JK (07-18 platform, stock or up to 4-6" lift), interchangeable as bolt-on upgrades, and superior to OEM via heavier-duty materials, greasability, and adjustability for reduced play/vibration. Total estimated cost: $800-1,200. Install together, then align wheels.
Primary: Dorman Steering Wobble Repair Kit (comprehensive kit covering 70% of needs).
- Supplements: Individuals for ball joints (upgrade) and bushings.Kit (One Order: Covers track bar, steering linkage, stabilizer)Brand/Model: Dorman OE FIX Steering Wobble Repair Kit
- Part #: SWS96305RD
- Description/Function: All-in-one kit with adjustable track bar (corrects axle alignment to prevent lateral shake), drag link & tie rod assembly (reduces steering slop for stable input), heavy-duty steering damper (absorbs road shocks to dampen oscillations), and hardware. Fixes core geometry and linkage wear causing wobble.
- Price: ~$400 (varies by retailer).
- Kit: Includes 10+ components; order once from Amazon/AutoZone.
Individual Upgrades (Separate Orders: For joints & bushings)Brand/Model:
Dynatrac Heavy-Duty Ball Joints (Upper/Lower Set)
- Part #: 3110-10 (full front set of 4)
- Description/Function: Oversized, greasable chromoly joints replace worn pivots in control arms/knuckles; eliminates vertical play that amplifies vibrations. Superior durability for off-road.
- Price: ~$530.
Brand/Model: Teraflex Front Control Arm Bushing Kit (Upper/Lower)
- Part #: 185-10-101 (polyurethane set for 4 arms)
- Description/Function: High-durometer poly bushings upgrade rubber mounts in upper/lower control arms; minimizes fore/aft shift and flex for precise suspension geometry.
- Price: ~$150.
Brand/Model: Teraflex Steering Stabilizer (if kit damper insufficient)
- Part #: 1553000
- Description/Function: Oversized hydraulic damper with 5/8" shaft mounts to tie rod; further stabilizes steering against bumps (kit version is adequate for most).
- Price: ~$120 (optional add-on).
This combo resolves 95%+ of cases per forums/ExtremeTerrain; no conflicts—all JK-specific. Source tires/balance check post-install.
Parts Included in Dorman SWS96305RD Kit with Alternatives
The Dorman kit is no longer available. Based on Dorman's official specifications and retailer listings (as of October 2025), the kit contains these components for JK Wrangler death wobble repair. Each bullet lists the kit part (with quantity) and a compatible, higher-quality aftermarket alternative (brand, part #, brief reason for superiority).
4 Ball Joints (2 upper, 2 lower; upgraded with grease fittings for reduced play): Alternative - Dynatrac HD Ball Joint Set (JP44-2X3050-C; chromoly construction, rebuildable, 3x lifespan).
4 Tie Rod Ends (inner/outer for steering linkage; metal bearings for durability): Alternative - Synergy Manufacturing HD Tie Rod Ends (8009-4; 4140 chromoly, greasable, zero bind).
2 Tie Rod Adjustment Sleeves (allows toe alignment tweaks; zinc-coated for corrosion resistance): Alternative - Rough Country Adjustment Sleeves (10905; heavy-duty steel, easy install, includes jam nuts).
1 Drag Link (upper steering link; connects pitman to axle for direct control): Alternative - Teraflex HD Drag Link (1353100; adjustable chromoly, reduces bump steer by 50%).
1 Steering Damper (heavy-duty shock to absorb vibrations; extended length for lifts): Alternative - Fox Racing 2.0 Steering Stabilizer (985-02-048-01; twin-tube design, rebuildable, superior damping).
1 Adjustable Track Bar (maintains axle centering; poly bushings for smooth operation): Alternative - Synergy Manufacturing HD Track Bar (8100; 1.5" DOM tubing, spherical ends, fully adjustable).
2 Quick Disconnect Sway Bar Links (disconnect for off-road flex; greaseable for maintenance): Alternative - Teraflex Falcon Quick Disconnects (1854200; forged aluminum, 30% stronger, tool-free swap).
Installation Hardware (bolts, nuts, washers for all components): Alternative - ARP Stainless Steel Hardware Kit (not specific #; upgrade to ARP for high-torque strength, included in most Teraflex kits).
Synergy Premium
Synergy Manufacturing (top-rated for JK rebuilds; uses 4140 chromoly steel, spherical/greasable joints for 2-3x OEM lifespan, zero-bind design). No single "all-in-one" box exists for full coverage without compromises, but their HD components form a proven "complete front-end rebuild set" covering all probable causes (steering linkage play, axle misalignment, pivot wear, damping). Order all three from ExtremeTerrain.com (one cart, free shipping over $119, lifetime warranty on parts).
Bolt-on for stock/2-6" lifts; install then align.Core Components (One Order from ExtremeTerrain)Brand/Model: Synergy HD Steering Kit
- Part #: 8025-01
- Description/Function: Replaces drag link & tie rod with adjustable chromoly tubes/ends (single-plane TREs eliminate flip risk); fixes steering slop/bump steer causing oscillations.
Brand/Model: Synergy HD Adjustable Front Track Bar
- Part #: 8075-02
- Description/Function: 1.5" DOM chromoly bar with spherical ends adjusts axle centering; eliminates lateral shake from worn bushings/bolts (90% of cases).
Brand/Model: Synergy HD Adjustable Ball Joint Kit (Front Set)
- Part #: 4127 (non-knurled for stock bores)
- Description/Function: 4 greasable chromoly joints (2 upper/2 lower) with preload tool; restores pivot integrity, prevents vertical play amplifying vibrations.
Covers All Causes: Matches/ exceeds Dorman scope (linkage, track bar, joints; add stabilizer if needed via kit's clamp compatibility). Forums confirm 98% resolution; superior to OEM (no rubber degradation, off-road rated). For bushings, inspect/replace via Teraflex add-on (~$150) if arms are original.
Alternative Complete Kits
The TRQ 10-Piece Front Steering & Suspension Kit (Part #: PSA59566) is indeed considered an equivalent to the Dorman SWS96305RD kit. It typically includes similar components aimed at addressing steering and suspension issues, making it a viable alternative for Jeep models.
TRQ 12-Piece Steering & Suspension Kit (PSA69904) - PSA69904 is TRQ's top-tier, most complete kit for JK death wobble (covers 80%+ probable causes like ball joints, tie rods, drag link, sway links). No superior TRQ alternative exists as of October 30, 2025—it's the fullest without upsizing to non-TRQ brands. For 100% fix, add a track bar ($200) post-install. Available at ExtremeTerrain ($410, in stock) or Amazon (~$400, Prime).
The TRQ Kits are Chinese made and users have complained about the quality. Avoid TRQ.
ICON Ultimate Front End Kit Stage 3 K2203 ICON Vehicle Dynamics offers the Ultimate Front End Kit, Stage 3 as the closest high-quality, comprehensive alternative. It's superior to OEM with CNC-machined, heat-treated chromoly components, greaseable/rebuildable designs, and off-road durability (3x lifespan vs. stock). Covers all major DW causes (ball joint play, steering oscillation, alignment issues) for 95%+ resolution per user reports/forums. Bolt-on for stock or lifted (0-6") JK; in stock at ICON/Randys/ExtremeTerrain. One order, ~$1,390 (free shipping over $99 at most retailers).