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[[Image:2002 Lancer OZ Rally.gif]]The O.Z Rally Edition has some of the look of the Evolution, including real alloy wheels made by racing supplier O.Z, for a fraction of what Mitsubishi would have to sell a real Evo for. [[Image:2002 Lancer OZ Rallyxxx.jpg]]SPECIFICATIONS2002 Mitsubishi Lancer O.Z Rally Edition Base Price $ 15,487 Price As Tested $ 16,392 Engine Type single overhead cam 16-valve inline four-cylinder Engine Size 2.0 liters / 120 cu. in. Horsepower 120 @ 5500 rpm Torque (lb-ft) 130 @ 4250 rpm Transmission 5-speed manual Wheelbase / Length 102.4 in. / 177.6 in. Curb Weight 2701 lbs. Pounds Per Horsepower 22.5 Fuel Capacity 13.2 gal. Fuel Requirement unleaded regular, 87 octane Tires P 195/60 TR15 Goodyear Eagle LS Brakes, front/rear vented disc / drum Suspension, front/rear independent MacPherson strut / independent multilink Drivetrain front engine, front-wheel drivePERFORMANCE EPA Fuel Economy - miles per gallon city / highway / observed 26 / 33 / 27 0 to 60 mph est. 9.0 sec=== headlamp ===The headlight bulb contains both the high and low beam filaments. The Mitsubishi Lancers made from 2002 to 2010 use the same bulb.[[File:2002_Mitsubishi_Lancer-Headlight9007.jpg]]<BR>Pictured is the Sylvania HB5 9007 (Part Number: 9007BP) which retails for under $12.00 each.HB5/9007 SERIES HALOGEN HEADLIGHT BULB* 9007 bulb type* C-8 filament type* PX29T base type* 12 volts== Service ===== Quick Oil Change Notes ===* <big>4 Quarts '''SAE 5W-30''' Valvoline Premium Conventional Motor Oil</big> (or 3½, do not overfill)* <big>FRAM Extraguard '''PH7317'''</big>* 17mm hex oil drain plug''note: If you observe shiny specks in the drained oil, they may be metal flakes and could mean that there is a serious problem with the engine.''''note: After draining the oil, when you replace the plug, only tighten the drain plug until it is snug. Over-tightening the oil drain plug can strip the threads or crack the oil pan.''=== Extended Information ===2002 MITSUBISHI LANCER 2.0L 4-cyl Engine Code [E] LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS: * Engine Oil Grade 1......SL:* Maximum Performance SAE 5W-30 Signature Series 100% Synthetic Motor Oil (ASLQT):* Performance Plus XL 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (XLFQT):* Performance OE 5W30 Synthetic Motor Oil (OEFQT)::* Above 0 F......10W-30 ( SAE 5W-30 is preferred )::* Below 100 F......5W-30 ( SAE 5W-30 is preferred )* Automatic Transmission,F4A42-1......SLF ( Mitsubishi Diamond SP-III ATF, or equivalent ):* Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATFQT)* Fluids:* Power Steering Fluid......PS::* Power Steering Fluid (PSFCN)2002 MITSUBISHI Lancer 4-2.0L F/inj. (16V) SOHC 4G94 (E) {||+Brand: FRAM|-|Part Type || Part |-|FRAM XTENDEDGUARD || XG7317 |-|FRAM TOUGHGUARD || TG7317 |-|FRAM HIGHMILEAGE || HM7317 |-|FRAM DOUBLEGUARD || DG7317 |-|'''FRAM EXTRAGUARD''' || '''PH7317''' |-|FRAM EXTRAGUARD AIR FILTERS || CA8208|}=== Jack and Jack Stand Placement ===The lift point for changing the oil is on the passenger side of the car, below the rocker panel and just behind the front wheel. See the following illustrations:[[File:mitsubishi-lancer01.jpg]][[File:mitsubishi-lancer02.jpg]]== Repair ===== Stuck or Sticking Brake Caliper ===Calipers do seize up, the pistons mostly. If there are a lot of miles on the vehicle (60,000 miles) and a caliper seizes, the one on the other side will follow shortly. Consider replacing them both. Two other possibilities are: guide pins not sliding for some reason, flexible brake hose collapsed internally. Replace all. The flex brake lines do become restricted, causing the caliper to delay in retracting, or sticking. Use non oil based synthetic brake lubricant. Don't let the caliber hang from the hose while you are working. Watch out for some replacement calibers, they may, or may not, have pins with them. Avoid brake calipers that have [[phenolic pistons]].IMPORTANT: Remove cap from brake fluid reservoir to relieve pressure on caliper. If you don't do this you won't be able to separate the compressed caliper, especially if it is stuck! They say ''when replacing the caliper make sure you know the torque specifications for: pins, caliber bracket, banjo nut, lug nuts.'' **some expansion on this is necessary...=== replacing the brakes and rotors ===Remove wheels. Reference [[Disc Breaks]] for a general guide to removing the pads and calipers. Remove the brake caliper bolts and hang the calipers to keep the weight off the brake line hose. Remove the caliper supports:[[File:mitsubishi_lancer_caliper_02.gif]]See rotor assembly. Be aware there may be a small phillips screw holding it to the hub.[[File:mitsubishi_lancer_hub_02.gif]]=== replacing wheel bearings ===Remove the axle nut, lower ball joint nut and separate the ball joint from the knuckle. Pull the axle from the hub but not the transmission. Unbolt the brake hose from the knuckle and the knuckle from the strut. Press the hub from the bearing and remove the bearing snap-ring. Press the bearing from the knuckle and press the new bearing into the knuckle, install the snap-ring. Cut the inner race from the hub and support the bearing inner race and press the hub into the bearing. Reassemble the knuckle to the strut, the axle to the hub and the ball joint to the knuckle. Torque the axle-nut. Install the rotor to the hub and the caliper support to the knuckle. [[File:mitsubishi_lancer_rotors_02.gif]]=== replacing serpentine belts ===There are two serpentine belts on this car. You will need a 12mm and 14mm sized wrench. Removal of the primary serpentine belt is necessary to access the rear belt. The rear belt is for the alternator only.{{ upload pictures here }}[[Category:Tangible Product]]