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The residential air conditioner has two units, an in-house Air Handler Unit and an outside Condenser Unit. The two units are connected with two lines. The system is considered to have three primary parts:Central air conditioners circulate cool air through a system of supply and return ducts. The cooled air becomes warmer as it circulates through the home; then it flows back to the central air conditioner through return ducts and registers. A central air conditioner is either a split-system unit or a packaged unit. In a split-system central air conditioner, there is an outdoor condenser and compressor, and an indoor evaporator, also known as the a-coil. The a-coil is typically installed in the same unit as the heater, but at the end where it is the last part air flows though before going into ductwork. If your home already has a furnace but no air conditioner, a split-system is the most economical central air conditioner to install. '''Split System Central Air'''<BR>Alternatively, a packaged unit has the evaporator, condenser, and compressor all located in one box, which usually is placed on a roof or on a concrete slab next to the house's foundation. They will not be discussed much here.There are 2 different types of air conditioning refrigerant currently used in residential cooling systems. R-22, commonly referred to a Freon and R410A, a blend considered to be more environmentally friendly, sometimes called Puron.There are 2 different types of air conditioning [[refrigerant]] currently used in residential cooling systems. R-22, commonly referred to a Freon and R410A, a blend considered to be more environmentally friendly, sometimes called Puron.* Small Line = Liquid Line (also called the pressure line), which feels hot to the touch while unit is operating in AC. Carries liquid coolant between the two units, this line gets very hot when operating due to the coolant being put under pressure. This line should not be insulated.* Small Line = Liquid Line (also called the pressure line or pushing line), which feels hot to the touch while unit is operating in AC. Carries liquid coolant between the two units, this line gets very hot when operating due to the coolant being put under pressure. This line should not be insulated. Failure Points / Things to Check# Thermostat # Blower Fan (indoors)# Compressor (outdoors)# Electrical Breaker# Dirty or Clogged air filter# A-Coil Froze Up or Dirty# Line Condition and TemperatureHave the compressor discharge and suction pressures checked. Normally R-22 is highside at 175-lbs and low side 75-lbs.If the suction line is too cold it could also indicate that line pressure is too low. This could be due to an air circulation problem through the a-coil as stated before referring to fan speed, or some other factor restricting air flow. Turn off the unit and allow the A-Coil to thaw completely. Make sure the tray below the A-Coil is not pooling with water. It should be able to drain out a hose. Turn off the unit and allow the A-Coil to thaw completely. Make sure the tray below the A-Coil is not pooling with water. It should be able to drain out a hose.=== Refrigerant Line Temperature Wrong ===The suction line should feel cool or mildly cold, but not overly icy cold. If the suction line is below freezing (32F) or not within the correct temperature tolerance range for the specific unit, this indicates low pressure in the line. Some technicians say that this line should feel as cold as a soda can right out of the refrigerator (or some say beer can cold).The liquid line should feel pretty warm to somewhat hot. If the line doesn't feel very warm it typically indicates low pressure within the line. This often indicates the system is low on coolant which likely indicates a leak or improper charging. If the compressor is going bad, it can also result in the line temperature being low and pressure being low.A system overcharged with coolant will destroy the compressor. A system undercharged with coolant will operate inefficiently or not cool the home at all. This all relates to the target superheat, which is a property known as superheat, in the HVAC world.The temperature and pressure of these lines during operation are impacted by the indoor and outdoor temperature. If it is not very warm outside, these lines cannot be accurately checked. Also, it is best to check the lines near the outdoor compressor.The liquid line leaving the condenser will never be lower than the outdoor temperature unless there is a restriction in the coil or the metering device is mounted in the outdoor unit.The liquid line should feel warm, approximately 100F. * Too hot - system may be undercharged (low on coolant)* Too cool - system may be overcharged (too much coolant)