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== Reload this Page How do I fully disable the alarm/ theft system ==== How do I fully disable the alarm/ theft system ==https://www.amazon.com/Goodyear-Wrangler-DuraTrac-Radial-LT285/dp/B004QL66DE=== guide ===https://www.cjponyparts.com/resources/wrangler-tire-buying-guide== Tires == General Grabber X3 Mud Tires *** Mastercraft Courser MXT Mud Tires **** Mudclaw Extreme MT Mud Tires *** Toyo Open Country M/T Mud Tires ** BF Goodrich All Terrain T/A KO2 All Terrain ** Nitto Exo Grappler AWT All Terrain *** Toyo Open Country R/T Hybrid ** 7.5JJx17 ET44.5== over inflation almost never causes tire failure ==Bill Woehrletire engineer, and now runs a company called TFI: Tire Forensics InvestigationBill says that overinflation almost never causes tire failure. The standard tire is inflated to about 30 to 35 pounds per square inch. Under hot weather and highway conditions, the temperature of the air inside the tire rises about 50 degrees. That increases the pressure inside the tire about 5 psi. The burst pressure of a tire is about 200 psi. Bill says that the most vulnerable part of any steel-belted radial tire is where the steel belts are attached to the rubber near the edges of the tread, also called the “shoulders” of the tire. If the tire is not abused, those belts should stay attached to the rubber for the entire tread life of the tire. But if the tire is defective (see Firestone debacle) at the end of its useful life, or if the tire has been abused in some way, the top belt can separate. When it tears, it tears violently, so it’s a crapshoot as to whether the next layer of rubber will tear too and cause a blowout. And the most common form of abuse is underinflating your tires. That’s right, UNDERinflating them.Woehrle says that underinflating the tire puts additional stress on the tire’s shoulders, where the belts are attached. And if a tire is underinflated by 10 or 15 psi, the temperature at those shoulders can reach 200 degrees. So you’ve got a vulnerable part of the rubber that’s hot being stretched and pulled, and that’s a recipe for tire failure.By the way, overloading the car with say, luggage or two mothers-in-law does the same thing as underinflating the tires. It stresses the shoulders of the tires.So Bill says if you’re going to make a mistake in inflating your tires, it’s much better to overinflate them a bit than underinflate them. There are really no horrible ramifications of overinflating the tires by 10 or 15 psi, except that when you go over bumps you’ll bounce up and hit your head on the dome light.But the dangers of underinflation are catastrophic tire failure. So for all of our readers: Make sure your tires have sufficient tread and have not exceeded the manufacturer’s mileage rating. Make sure they’re less than 10 years old, even if they have low miles (because old rubber gets brittle and has a greater tendency to crack). And check your tire pressure at least once a month to make sure your tires aren’t underinflated. source: https://www.denverpost.com/2007/09/29/can-tire-pressure-rise-on-its-own/== How do you reset the TPMS on a Jeep JK? ==Locate the TPMS reset button under the steering wheel and press in, holding until the tire pressure light blinks three times. Start the car and wait 20 minutes for the sensor to refresh. Inflate all tires to 3 PSI over their recommended amount, then deflate them completely.Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS)Sometimes even after inflating your tires the tire pressure light remains on. It’s important to reset this light so that your tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) can keep you alert and aware of possible issues with your wheels.----Resetting Your Tire Pressure LightWhile the tire pressure light should turn off on its own after properly inflating your tires, there are additional steps available for a reset if needed:* For about 10 minutes, drive at or above 50 mph. The next time you restart your car, it’s likely the sensor will reset.* Turn the key to the “On” position, but don’t start the car. Locate the TPMS reset button under the steering wheel and press in, holding until the tire pressure light blinks three times. Start the car and wait 20 minutes for the sensor to refresh.* Inflate all tires to 3 PSI over their recommended amount, then deflate them completely. Be sure to include the spare tire, as it may have a sensor as well. Once they’re all deflated, re-inflate to the recommended tire pressure.* With the vehicle off, use a wrench to disconnect the positive battery cable. Turn the car on and honk the horn for about three seconds. This will discharge any power still stored in the vehicle. Then reconnect the battery.If your TPMS light is still on, you should definitely bring it in for a diagnosis.== rolling door lock aka asshole design to lock people out of their own vehicle and strand them. ==https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/disabling-door-auto-lock-feature-378255/SCAN TOOL PROGRAMMINGWhen using the scan tool, select: 1. “Theft Alarm” 2. “VTSS” 3. “Miscellaneous” and then the desired function.CUSTOMER PROGRAMMING 1. Open the driver door, sit in the driver seat, and close the driver door. 2. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position (without starting the vehicle) and then back to OFF. Repeat this step three additional times (for a total of four key ON/OFF cycles). 3. Within 10 seconds of switching the ignition switch to the OFF position for the last time (at the end of the fourth cycle in the above step), press the driver interior door lock switch to LOCK. 4. A single chime will be heard to verify that the customer programmable toggle of the rolling door locks was successfully completed.Steps 2 and 3 must be completed within 10 seconds.NOTE: When toggling the rolling door locks (customer programmable), the toggle that happens will be from the last state of the rolling door locks. If the rolling door locks were enabled, after the toggle process, they will now be disabled and vice versa. There is no telltale to inform you of which state the rolling door locks are in.== Motor Oil == Mopar Motor Oil Product List Price: $9.52 Part Number: W0133-3646708 Notes: Conventional - Standard Mineral Based - Meets OE Specification Product Remark: 5W-20 Max Pro - 1 Quart OEM Mopar Motor Oil Product List Price: $9.52 Part Number: W0133-1979951 Notes: Conventional - Standard Mineral Based - Meets OE Specification Detailed Notes: 5W-20 Mineral Based 1QT; Chrysler Spec: MS-6395; Rating API SM Energy Conserving, ILSAC GF-5. This product exceeds requirements for API Certified SN engine oils. Product Remark: 5W-20 Max Pro - 1 Quart OEM== Battery ==Battery: 34 Group Size, Top Post. recommend 800 CCA, 1000 CA, 110 Minute Reserve Capacity, Maximum Starting Power== Stuck in 4wd and the shifter is loose ==reference: https://www.jkowners.com/threads/help-stuck-in-4wd-and-the-shifter-is-loose.31044/Discussion Starter · #1 · Jun 12, 2010I hope something just came un hooked.I had the console propped up rather than taking it completly out as i was coating the floor with bedliner. Now I put it back together and im stuck in 4 wheel drive. Not only that but the 4 wheel drive shifter is loose. It will go forward and back but i can tell its like its not connected to anythingHave I just un hooked the linkage or something? I dont know where to check/what to check. Does the console just snap together other than the screws holding it together at the back on the sides?I kinda need the Jeep tonight so hopefully somebody can help me out.Thanks in advance jeepboy#2 · Jun 12, 2010Check your cable at the transfer case linkage on the left side and see if the cable has popped off. If it has, pop it back on and use a small tie strap on the outside of the linkage to secure. tkob1060#3 · Jun 12, 2010I believe there is a connection under the console also, the console comes off in 5 minutes with 4 screws, write up here, though popping the tcase shift know off now might be a little harder with it flopping loose.http://jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11960 rob4607#4 · Jun 12, 2010It's a hell of alot easier to crawl under and feel for the cable dangeling than removing all that stuff, specially since the mass concensus has had the connector pop off/brek at the xfer linkage itself.Crawl under after it has cooled off on the drivers side, reach up and follow the cables back and one will be disconnected. You can put it back on without the snap bushing to be able to put it in two wheel drive or if your hands are strong enough you can flick it to the correct position.When you have them order the snap bushings get extra ones for the glove box since they are only about .40 cents each.I still think a aftermarket connection device needs to be developed, I would prefer a cable with metal ring ends and not plastic. Sometimes when you REALLY need 4wd and specially 4low it's not always in the cards to be "rolling" to softly engage it like a soccer mom. It needs to be like my pecker so I can jerk on it when the need arises! tkob1060#5 · Jun 12, 2010 (Edited)Did you read that part? he did NOT do it while out wheelin. I'm pretty sure others have broken the linkage under the console, unless that was just for the auto shifter. Sunburst SaharaDiscussion Starter · #6 · Jun 12, 2010thanks guys ill check it out.yeah i was in the driveway not out wheeling :laughing: No more Jeep :bawling:Save ShareReplySSunburst Sahara·RegisteredJoined Jan 23, 2010·765 PostsDiscussion Starter · #7 · Jun 13, 2010ok i felt around under the jeep and found the cable. Got it back where its supposed to be, now how do i keep it there for good or is this going to be an ongoing problem.Is the "snap bushing" They white colored plastic bits that were torn up on the stud that the cable end slides over? Can I get these at a parts store or am I going to have to get them from the dealer?Thanks guys for the help. Sucks though because now Im soaking wet since its pouring rain and I dont have a garage. Somehow dripping water off of a vehicle allways manages to find either my eye or my ear. :pissed:Now its time for a beer! No more Jeep :bawling:Save ShareReplyMr.RonGilbertMr.RonGilbert·RegisteredJoined Feb 14, 2009·9,137 Posts#8 · Jun 13, 2010A small zip tie and pick up a spare clip at the stealership. Cheap insurance.Can Pro-zak get those?.... Save ShareReplytkob1060tkob1060·RegisteredJoined Jun 20, 2009·7,277 Posts#9 · Jun 13, 2010I just thought of something why did you put it in 4wd in the driveway? :laughing:glad you got it back on, its a common problem on the jk A LITTLE GIRL NEEDS YOUR HELP CLICK HEREShe still needs your help in 2011 click HERE Dancin Dan;942827 said: A Jeep just zipped past my house and I could swear I heard the driver yellin: "The tkob is coming!! The tkob is coming!!" Click to expand...Save ShareReplySSunburst Sahara·RegisteredJoined Jan 23, 2010·765 PostsDiscussion Starter · #10 · Jun 13, 2010i put it in 4 lo and 4th to have more room to prop up the console while i bedlined the floor rather than removing the console No more Jeep :bawling:Save ShareReplySoK66SoK66·RegisteredJoined May 6, 2009·4,161 Posts#11 · Jun 13, 2010The push-on clip at the transfer case lever has probably broken. (It's an utter POS design, thanks again, Chrysler.) Get a couple new ones from the dealer.FWIW, I took a new one, carefully sliced the end off and used an "E" clip pushed on over the pin on the transfer case lever as a retainer. No more trouble. '09 JKRU. 4" Teraflex long arm, Teraflex R44 housing, Teraflex / Fox Resis, Poly Performance skids, Nemesis Billy Rockers, Nemesis flares, 37" ATZ P3s on 17" 5x5.5" Trailready HDs, Spyntec hubs, Teraflex BBK, Mopar BBK master/booster, Superior front & Alloy USA rear axle shafts, CTMs, Reids, Synergy drag link & tie rod, WTOR hydro-boosted steering, 5.38s, TF Dual Rate front bar, TF bumpers, Warn Powerplant, Tom Woods shafts, AA xfer case cable, Kilby canister relo, RH4x4 cage.Save ShareReplyRrob4607·RegisteredJoined Apr 3, 2009·2,721 Posts#12 · Jun 14, 2010Sorry, foggy from all the darvocet. Don't know how missed that. 2008 JK 4Dr RubiconStone whiteMygig W/Uconnect working.Hard top/Auto trannyFirst mod, dog slobber.Painted hard topSpidertraxx 1.5 spacersTeraflex 3" liftCurrie front lower control armsJKS front and rear adj. track barsEuroefx HID kit, high/low beam and fogsShrockworks rear full width, tire carrierPost count from the "other" place when i was following the "herd" was 692 on 4-2-09, not a noob...:stirthepot:Save ShareReplySSunburst Sahara·RegisteredJoined Jan 23, 2010·765 PostsDiscussion Starter · #13 · Jun 25, 2010Well I got it fixed. The parts guy was totally lost because there wasnt a picture of the part so he ordered two different ones that didnt have pics to see which one it was, even though I told him it was the transfer case cable retainer (or whatever it was actually called)I pulled the Jeep up on my block/ramps and unbolted the skid plate and that made it really easy to pop the piece in the cable and slide it on.It broke me up though, I got two of them for a whole $0.64 :laughing:Parts guy said it was the cheapest thing hes ever sold.On a side note, while I was there a lady came in who had bought spark plugs for her truck, got them home and they were used plugs :shaking: They were speachless but gave her a refund and the parts manager got to go back and check ALL of the spark plugs :laughing: No more Jeep :bawling:Save ShareReply1 - 13 of 13 PostsJoin the discussion== Rim details: ==Rim details: *7.5JJx17 ET44.45*17x7.5 ET44.45 5x127*Bolt Pattern: 5x5 PCD: 5' (or 127 mm)*PCD 5x127*lug thread: M14 x 2.00*lug thread pitch: 2.00*Center bore: 71.5 mm*lug torque: 130 NmLUG PATTERN METRIC 5x127mm, LUG PATTERN INCHES 5x5 in, STUD SIZE 1/2x20, HUB/CENTER BORE 71.5== info from back of rim == 501 51649 DI IBZ81TRMAD CHINA M2 44 45 OFFSET== Dealing With Swelled Lug Nuts ==On a lot of vehicles made during the past 20 years, the manufacturer used a two-piece lug nut that has a chrome cap over the steel lug nut. On the new car lot, these look good on a nice set of alloy wheels. But, in as little as three years, the lug nuts could swell and make removal difficult. The problem with these lug nuts is that water and salt gets between the nut and cap. The resulting corrosion causes the cap to swell and change the outer diameter of the nut. For the driver, this often means the lug wrench in the trunk will no longer fit when they need to change a tire by the side of the road. [[File:lug-nuts-3-624.jpg]]For a technician, it could mean extra time and tools to remove the lug nut. It is not impossible, but the key is to identify the problem before you make it worse. The rookie mistake is to grab the next larger size socket and use an impact wrench. This method can dislodge the chrome cap, but it can also round off the harder nut under it. Senior technicians know that not too many lug nuts come in 18mm, 20mm or 22mm sizes, so if they feel resistance when trying to get the socket over a lug nut, they put down the impact before they make it worse. The impact is a great time saver, but it lacks the feel and overall torque of a good breaker bar. A good technician also knows the feel of a properly engaged nut and socket with a breaker bar better than an electric or pneumatic impact. Some technicians have purchased over-sized sockets in 19.5mm and 21.5mm size to remove swelled lug nuts. Some technicians have had luck with 12-point sockets in 11/16” and 3/4” sizes. Using these slightly oversized sockets involves hammering the socket over the swelled lug nut and using a breaker bar. Unfortunately, sometimes the lug nut then becomes permanently lodged in the socket and won’t come out.The worst-case scenario is that a previous technician damaged the lug nuts with his impact and now you have to deal with it. In these cases, a drill bit or rotary broach bit might be your only solution. *[https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/dealing-with-swelled-lug-nuts/ By Andrew Markel, Jun 24, 2019]== This problem is prevalent in some Jeep, Toyota, Ford, Chrysler, and Dodge models. ==This problem is prevalent in some Jeep, Toyota, Ford, Chrysler, and Dodge models.As an example, a twenty-one-millimeter lug nut can grow to twenty-two millimeters when it swells. This becomes a problem when you have to change tires on the fly and your lug wrench doesn’t fit around the nut anymore. Severe corrosion can cause the chrome cover to fall off and expose the steel nut underneath. You can end up stranded on the side of the road if you can’t remove the lug nuts to change a flat tire.Swollen lug nuts has been a common problem since the invention of the two-piece capped lug nut. The problem occurs when moisture infiltrates the space between the chrome decorative cap and the actual steel lug nut securing the wheel to the vehicle.To really fix the problem, you can purchase a solid chrome replacement lug nut. Although they are different in appearance, they will resolve the issue of the separating lug nuts. When purchasing replacement solid lug nuts, know the hex size of your lug wrench. There are many different replacements available and sometimes you may have to go with a standard size hex like 13/16” rather than the factory 19mm metric hex size. In this instance, if you have a get a flat and have to use the manufacturers supplied lug wrench, you may be in big trouble.The lug nuts themselves are steel, but they're covered in a thin chrome veneer.If you go with the solid lug nut replacement, make sure they are long enough and have the correct size hex for your lug wrench. It will save you tons of aggravation in case of a flat on the road.You can eliminate the possibility of swollen lug nuts by paying a little extra for chrome-plated or stainless steel nuts. Those shiny finishes replace the caps that are attached to most nuts, but they cost more.== Swollen lug nuts ==Swollen lug nuts — What causes lug nuts to swell and how to remove themWhat is an acorn lug nut?An acorn style lug nut protects against water intrusion into the threads. That feature, by itself is a great idea. But there are two ways to make an acorn style lug nut: 1) weld a steel cap over the end of the lug nut prior to chrome plating the entire lug nut, OR, 2) form a thin aluminum cap over the steel lug nut.The first method is more expensive and adds weight to the vehicle. The second method is less expensive and lighter, but cause problems down the road, and that problem is referred to as swollen lug nuts.What causes swollen lug nuts ?Rust Jacking. As steel rusts forms, it expands outward with great force. Rust jacking develops enough force to distort the aluminum shell that was formed around the steel lug nut. At that point the 21mm socket not longer fits properly on the lug nut.The shop is faced with using a lug nut removal socket which damages the stripped lug nut with cap lug nut or, in extreme cases, they must use a hammer and chisel to peel off the cap.How to prevent swellingThere is no way to prevent capped lug nuts from rusting.The only way to prevent lug nuts from rusting and swelling is to replace them with solid acorn lug nuts. Solid lug nuts are available online. Just make sure you buy the correct thread size and taper to fit your wheels.How to remove swollen lug nutsThere are three ways to remove swollen lug nutsMethod 1— Buy half-sized socketsBuy a 19.5mm or a 21.5mm socket to fit over the swollen lug nutsMethod 2 — Buy stripped lug nut removal socketsMethod 3 — Chisel off the formed cap and use a regular socketUse a small cold chisel and ball peen hammer and chisel off the acorn cap. Then slice down the sides of the lug nut and peel the thin metal away from the hex nut until you can fit a socket over the steel lug nut.== There should be a recall or a lawsuit. ==[https://www.jeeprenegadeforum.com/threads/swollen-lug-nuts.102707/ I ordered a lug nut buster (Irwin Tools 53911 Irwin Industrial Tool Co Extractor 17mm )] Scott Dunkley1 post · Joined 2019#8 · Jan 6, 2020 I just had to replace ALL of the lug bolts on my wifes 2017 renegade. The garage wouldnt rotate my tires. Every single oem lug bolt was swollen. I ordered a lug nut buster (Irwin Tools 53911 Irwin Industrial Tool Co Extractor 17mm ) and a set of 20 12x1.25 Wheel Lug 17mm Studs . I used a breaker bar to get them out. what a PITA. I live in the northeast, so lots of rain snow, ice, salt.There should be a recall or a lawsuit.