Talk:2009 Jeep Wrangler JK

alarm info

SECURITY ALARM SYSTEM — IF EQUIPPED

This system monitors the vehicle doors, liftgate, liftgate flipper glass, and ignition for unauthorized operation. When the alarm is activated, the system provides both audible and visual signals. The horn will sound repeatedly for three minutes and the headlights and taillights will flash for an additional 15 minutes.

To Set the Alarm

The alarm will set when you use the remote keyless entry transmitter to lock the doors and liftgate or when you use the power door lock switch while the door is open. After all the doors are locked and closed, a red light on top of the instrument panel will flash rapidly for about 16 seconds to signal that the system is arming. During this 16 second pre-arm period, opening any door or the liftgate will cancel the arming. If the system successfully arms, the red light will flash at a slower rate to indicate the alarm is set.

To Disarm the System

To disarm the system, use the remote keyless entry transmitter or the key to unlock the driver’s door. If something has triggered the system in your absence, the horn will sound three times when you unlock the doors. Check the vehicle for tampering.

The Security Alarm System is designed to protect your vehicle; however, you can create conditions where the system will arm unexpectedly. If you remain in the vehicle and lock the doors with the transmitter, once the system is armed (after 16 seconds), when you pull the door handle to exit the alarm will sound. If this occurs, press the “Unlock” button on the remote keyless entry transmitter to disarm the system. You may also accidentally disarm the system by unlocking the driver’s door with the key and then locking it. The door will be locked but the Security Alarm will not arm.

How do I fully disable the alarm/ theft system

http://www.wranglerforum.com/search.php?searchid=85328729

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/how-do-i-fully-disable-the-alarm-theft-system-1738889.html

winter snow and mud tire

https://www.amazon.com/Nankang-Mudstar-Radial-75R17-22130002/dp/B01MZ0P9B1/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1539224860&sr=1-1&keywords=Nankang+255%2F75R17

https://www.amazon.com/Mastercraft-Courser-Terrain-Radial-Tire/dp/B00MY0QDVY/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1539226179&sr=1-1&keywords=mastercraft+courser+mxt+285%2F70r17

https://www.amazon.com/Goodyear-Wrangler-DuraTrac-Radial-LT285/dp/B004QL66DE

guide

https://www.cjponyparts.com/resources/wrangler-tire-buying-guide

Tires

General Grabber X3                  Mud Tires   ***
Mastercraft Courser MXT             Mud Tires   ****
Mudclaw Extreme MT                  Mud Tires   ***
Toyo Open Country M/T               Mud Tires   **
BF Goodrich All Terrain T/A KO2     All Terrain **
Nitto Exo Grappler AWT              All Terrain ***
Toyo Open Country R/T               Hybrid      **

7.5JJx17 ET44.5

over inflation almost never causes tire failure

Bill Woehrle tire engineer, and now runs a company called TFI: Tire Forensics Investigation

Bill says that overinflation almost never causes tire failure. The standard tire is inflated to about 30 to 35 pounds per square inch. Under hot weather and highway conditions, the temperature of the air inside the tire rises about 50 degrees. That increases the pressure inside the tire about 5 psi. The burst pressure of a tire is about 200 psi.

Bill says that the most vulnerable part of any steel-belted radial tire is where the steel belts are attached to the rubber near the edges of the tread, also called the “shoulders” of the tire. If the tire is not abused, those belts should stay attached to the rubber for the entire tread life of the tire.

But if the tire is defective (see Firestone debacle) at the end of its useful life, or if the tire has been abused in some way, the top belt can separate. When it tears, it tears violently, so it’s a crapshoot as to whether the next layer of rubber will tear too and cause a blowout. And the most common form of abuse is underinflating your tires. That’s right, UNDERinflating them.

Woehrle says that underinflating the tire puts additional stress on the tire’s shoulders, where the belts are attached. And if a tire is underinflated by 10 or 15 psi, the temperature at those shoulders can reach 200 degrees. So you’ve got a vulnerable part of the rubber that’s hot being stretched and pulled, and that’s a recipe for tire failure.

By the way, overloading the car with say, luggage or two mothers-in-law does the same thing as underinflating the tires. It stresses the shoulders of the tires.

So Bill says if you’re going to make a mistake in inflating your tires, it’s much better to overinflate them a bit than underinflate them. There are really no horrible ramifications of overinflating the tires by 10 or 15 psi, except that when you go over bumps you’ll bounce up and hit your head on the dome light.

But the dangers of underinflation are catastrophic tire failure. So for all of our readers: Make sure your tires have sufficient tread and have not exceeded the manufacturer’s mileage rating. Make sure they’re less than 10 years old, even if they have low miles (because old rubber gets brittle and has a greater tendency to crack). And check your tire pressure at least once a month to make sure your tires aren’t underinflated.

source: https://www.denverpost.com/2007/09/29/can-tire-pressure-rise-on-its-own/

How do you reset the TPMS on a Jeep JK?

Locate the TPMS reset button under the steering wheel and press in, holding until the tire pressure light blinks three times. Start the car and wait 20 minutes for the sensor to refresh. Inflate all tires to 3 PSI over their recommended amount, then deflate them completely.

Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS)

Sometimes even after inflating your tires the tire pressure light remains on. It’s important to reset this light so that your tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) can keep you alert and aware of possible issues with your wheels.

---

Resetting Your Tire Pressure Light

While the tire pressure light should turn off on its own after properly inflating your tires, there are additional steps available for a reset if needed:

• For about 10 minutes, drive at or above 50 mph. The next time you restart your car, it’s likely the sensor will reset.
• Turn the key to the “On” position, but don’t start the car. Locate the TPMS reset button under the steering wheel and press in, holding until the tire pressure light blinks three times. Start the car and wait 20 minutes for the sensor to refresh.
• Inflate all tires to 3 PSI over their recommended amount, then deflate them completely. Be sure to include the spare tire, as it may have a sensor as well. Once they’re all deflated, re-inflate to the recommended tire pressure.
• With the vehicle off, use a wrench to disconnect the positive battery cable. Turn the car on and honk the horn for about three seconds. This will discharge any power still stored in the vehicle. Then reconnect the battery.

If your TPMS light is still on, you should definitely bring it in for a diagnosis.

rolling door lock aka asshole design to lock people out of their own vehicle and strand them.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/disabling-door-auto-lock-feature-378255/

SCAN TOOL PROGRAMMING

When using the scan tool, select:

1. “Theft Alarm”
2. “VTSS”
3. “Miscellaneous” and then the desired function.

CUSTOMER PROGRAMMING

1. Open the driver door, sit in the driver seat, and close the driver door.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position (without starting the vehicle) and then 
back to OFF. Repeat this step three additional times (for a total of four key ON/OFF cycles).
3. Within 10 seconds of switching the ignition switch to the OFF position for the last time 
(at the end of the fourth cycle in the above step), press the driver interior door lock 
switch to LOCK.
4. A single chime will be heard to verify that the customer programmable toggle of the 
rolling door locks was successfully completed.

Steps 2 and 3 must be completed within 10 seconds.

NOTE: When toggling the rolling door locks (customer programmable), the toggle that happens will be from the last state of the rolling door locks. If the rolling door locks were enabled, after the toggle process, they will now be disabled and vice versa. There is no telltale to inform you of which state the rolling door locks are in.

Motor Oil

Mopar Motor Oil
Product List Price:
$9.52
Part Number: W0133-3646708
Notes: Conventional - Standard Mineral Based - Meets OE Specification
Product Remark: 5W-20 Max Pro - 1 Quart
OEM

Mopar Motor Oil
Product List Price:
$9.52
Part Number: W0133-1979951
Notes: Conventional - Standard Mineral Based - Meets OE Specification
Detailed Notes: 5W-20 Mineral Based 1QT; Chrysler Spec: MS-6395; Rating API SM Energy Conserving, ILSAC GF-5. This product exceeds requirements for API Certified SN engine oils.
Product Remark: 5W-20 Max Pro - 1 Quart
OEM

Battery

Battery: 34 Group Size, Top Post.

recommend 800 CCA, 1000 CA, 110 Minute Reserve Capacity, Maximum Starting Power

Stuck in 4wd and the shifter is loose

reference: https://www.jkowners.com/threads/help-stuck-in-4wd-and-the-shifter-is-loose.31044/

Discussion Starter · #1 · Jun 12, 2010

I hope something just came un hooked.

I had the console propped up rather than taking it completly out as i was coating the floor with bedliner. Now I put it back together and im stuck in 4 wheel drive. Not only that but the 4 wheel drive shifter is loose. It will go forward and back but i can tell its like its not connected to anything

Have I just un hooked the linkage or something? I dont know where to check/what to check. Does the console just snap together other than the screws holding it together at the back on the sides?

I kinda need the Jeep tonight so hopefully somebody can help me out.

Thanks in advance

jeepboy

1. 2 · Jun 12, 2010

Check your cable at the transfer case linkage on the left side and see if the cable has popped off. If it has, pop it back on and use a small tie strap on the outside of the linkage to secure.

tkob1060

1. 3 · Jun 12, 2010

I believe there is a connection under the console also, the console comes off in 5 minutes with 4 screws, write up here, though popping the tcase shift know off now might be a little harder with it flopping loose. http://jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11960

rob4607

1. 4 · Jun 12, 2010

It's a hell of alot easier to crawl under and feel for the cable dangeling than removing all that stuff, specially since the mass concensus has had the connector pop off/brek at the xfer linkage itself.

Crawl under after it has cooled off on the drivers side, reach up and follow the cables back and one will be disconnected. You can put it back on without the snap bushing to be able to put it in two wheel drive or if your hands are strong enough you can flick it to the correct position.

When you have them order the snap bushings get extra ones for the glove box since they are only about .40 cents each.

I still think a aftermarket connection device needs to be developed, I would prefer a cable with metal ring ends and not plastic. Sometimes when you REALLY need 4wd and specially 4low it's not always in the cards to be "rolling" to softly engage it like a soccer mom. It needs to be like my pecker so I can jerk on it when the need arises!

tkob1060

1. 5 · Jun 12, 2010 (Edited)

Did you read that part? he did NOT do it while out wheelin. I'm pretty sure others have broken the linkage under the console, unless that was just for the auto shifter.

Sunburst Sahara

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jun 12, 2010

thanks guys ill check it out.

yeah i was in the driveway not out wheeling :laughing:

No more Jeep :bawling: Save Share Reply S Sunburst Sahara · Registered Joined Jan 23, 2010 · 765 Posts Discussion Starter · #7 · Jun 13, 2010 ok i felt around under the jeep and found the cable. Got it back where its supposed to be, now how do i keep it there for good or is this going to be an ongoing problem.

Is the "snap bushing" They white colored plastic bits that were torn up on the stud that the cable end slides over? Can I get these at a parts store or am I going to have to get them from the dealer?

Thanks guys for the help. Sucks though because now Im soaking wet since its pouring rain and I dont have a garage. Somehow dripping water off of a vehicle allways manages to find either my eye or my ear. :pissed:

Now its time for a beer!

No more Jeep :bawling: Save Share Reply Mr.RonGilbert Mr.RonGilbert · Registered Joined Feb 14, 2009 · 9,137 Posts

1. 8 · Jun 13, 2010

A small zip tie and pick up a spare clip at the stealership. Cheap insurance.

Can Pro-zak get those?....

Save Share Reply tkob1060 tkob1060 · Registered Joined Jun 20, 2009 · 7,277 Posts

1. 9 · Jun 13, 2010

I just thought of something why did you put it in 4wd in the driveway? :laughing:

glad you got it back on, its a common problem on the jk

A LITTLE GIRL NEEDS YOUR HELP CLICK HERE

She still needs your help in 2011 click HERE

   Dancin Dan;942827 said:
   A Jeep just zipped past my house and I could swear I heard the driver yellin:

   "The tkob is coming!! The tkob is coming!!"
   Click to expand...

Save Share Reply S Sunburst Sahara · Registered Joined Jan 23, 2010 · 765 Posts Discussion Starter · #10 · Jun 13, 2010 i put it in 4 lo and 4th to have more room to prop up the console while i bedlined the floor rather than removing the console

No more Jeep :bawling: Save Share Reply SoK66 SoK66 · Registered Joined May 6, 2009 · 4,161 Posts

1. 11 · Jun 13, 2010

The push-on clip at the transfer case lever has probably broken. (It's an utter POS design, thanks again, Chrysler.) Get a couple new ones from the dealer.

FWIW, I took a new one, carefully sliced the end off and used an "E" clip pushed on over the pin on the transfer case lever as a retainer. No more trouble.

'09 JKRU. 4" Teraflex long arm, Teraflex R44 housing, Teraflex / Fox Resis, Poly Performance skids, Nemesis Billy Rockers, Nemesis flares, 37" ATZ P3s on 17" 5x5.5" Trailready HDs, Spyntec hubs, Teraflex BBK, Mopar BBK master/booster, Superior front & Alloy USA rear axle shafts, CTMs, Reids, Synergy drag link & tie rod, WTOR hydro-boosted steering, 5.38s, TF Dual Rate front bar, TF bumpers, Warn Powerplant, Tom Woods shafts, AA xfer case cable, Kilby canister relo, RH4x4 cage. Save Share Reply R rob4607 · Registered Joined Apr 3, 2009 · 2,721 Posts

1. 12 · Jun 14, 2010

Sorry, foggy from all the darvocet. Don't know how missed that.

2008 JK 4Dr Rubicon Stone white Mygig W/Uconnect working. Hard top/Auto tranny First mod, dog slobber. Painted hard top Spidertraxx 1.5 spacers Teraflex 3" lift Currie front lower control arms JKS front and rear adj. track bars Euroefx HID kit, high/low beam and fogs Shrockworks rear full width, tire carrier

Post count from the "other" place when i was following the "herd" was 692 on 4-2-09, not a noob...

stirthepot:

Save Share Reply S Sunburst Sahara · Registered Joined Jan 23, 2010 · 765 Posts Discussion Starter · #13 · Jun 25, 2010 Well I got it fixed. The parts guy was totally lost because there wasnt a picture of the part so he ordered two different ones that didnt have pics to see which one it was, even though I told him it was the transfer case cable retainer (or whatever it was actually called)

I pulled the Jeep up on my block/ramps and unbolted the skid plate and that made it really easy to pop the piece in the cable and slide it on.

It broke me up though, I got two of them for a whole $0.64 :laughing:

Parts guy said it was the cheapest thing hes ever sold.

On a side note, while I was there a lady came in who had bought spark plugs for her truck, got them home and they were used plugs :shaking: They were speachless but gave her a refund and the parts manager got to go back and check ALL of the spark plugs :laughing:

No more Jeep :bawling: Save Share Reply 1 - 13 of 13 Posts Join the discussion

Rim details:

Rim details:

• 7.5JJx17 ET44.45
• 17x7.5 ET44.45 5x127
• Bolt Pattern: 5x5 PCD: 5' (or 127 mm)
• PCD 5x127
• lug thread: M14 x 2.00
• lug thread pitch: 2.00
• Center bore: 71.5 mm
• lug torque: 130 Nm

LUG PATTERN METRIC 5x127mm, LUG PATTERN INCHES 5x5 in, STUD SIZE 1/2x20, HUB/CENTER BORE 71.5

info from back of rim

501
51649 DI
IBZ81TRMAD
CHINA M2
44 45 OFFSET

Dealing With Swelled Lug Nuts

On a lot of vehicles made during the past 20 years, the manufacturer used a two-piece lug nut that has a chrome cap over the steel lug nut. On the new car lot, these look good on a nice set of alloy wheels. But, in as little as three years, the lug nuts could swell and make removal difficult.

The problem with these lug nuts is that water and salt gets between the nut and cap. The resulting corrosion causes the cap to swell and change the outer diameter of the nut. For the driver, this often means the lug wrench in the trunk will no longer fit when they need to change a tire by the side of the road.

For a technician, it could mean extra time and tools to remove the lug nut. It is not impossible, but the key is to identify the problem before you make it worse. The rookie mistake is to grab the next larger size socket and use an impact wrench. This method can dislodge the chrome cap, but it can also round off the harder nut under it. Senior technicians know that not too many lug nuts come in 18mm, 20mm or 22mm sizes, so if they feel resistance when trying to get the socket over a lug nut, they put down the impact before they make it worse. The impact is a great time saver, but it lacks the feel and overall torque of a good breaker bar. A good technician also knows the feel of a properly engaged nut and socket with a breaker bar better than an electric or pneumatic impact.

Some technicians have purchased over-sized sockets in 19.5mm and 21.5mm size to remove swelled lug nuts. Some technicians have had luck with 12-point sockets in 11/16” and 3/4” sizes. Using these slightly oversized sockets involves hammering the socket over the swelled lug nut and using a breaker bar. Unfortunately, sometimes the lug nut then becomes permanently lodged in the socket and won’t come out.

The worst-case scenario is that a previous technician damaged the lug nuts with his impact and now you have to deal with it. In these cases, a drill bit or rotary broach bit might be your only solution.

• By Andrew Markel, Jun 24, 2019

This problem is prevalent in some Jeep, Toyota, Ford, Chrysler, and Dodge models.

This problem is prevalent in some Jeep, Toyota, Ford, Chrysler, and Dodge models.

As an example, a twenty-one-millimeter lug nut can grow to twenty-two millimeters when it swells. This becomes a problem when you have to change tires on the fly and your lug wrench doesn’t fit around the nut anymore. Severe corrosion can cause the chrome cover to fall off and expose the steel nut underneath. You can end up stranded on the side of the road if you can’t remove the lug nuts to change a flat tire.

Swollen lug nuts has been a common problem since the invention of the two-piece capped lug nut. The problem occurs when moisture infiltrates the space between the chrome decorative cap and the actual steel lug nut securing the wheel to the vehicle.

To really fix the problem, you can purchase a solid chrome replacement lug nut. Although they are different in appearance, they will resolve the issue of the separating lug nuts.

When purchasing replacement solid lug nuts, know the hex size of your lug wrench. There are many different replacements available and sometimes you may have to go with a standard size hex like 13/16” rather than the factory 19mm metric hex size. In this instance, if you have a get a flat and have to use the manufacturers supplied lug wrench, you may be in big trouble.

The lug nuts themselves are steel, but they're covered in a thin chrome veneer.

If you go with the solid lug nut replacement, make sure they are long enough and have the correct size hex for your lug wrench. It will save you tons of aggravation in case of a flat on the road.

You can eliminate the possibility of swollen lug nuts by paying a little extra for chrome-plated or stainless steel nuts. Those shiny finishes replace the caps that are attached to most nuts, but they cost more.

Swollen lug nuts

Swollen lug nuts — What causes lug nuts to swell and how to remove them

What is an acorn lug nut?

An acorn style lug nut protects against water intrusion into the threads. That feature, by itself is a great idea. But there are two ways to make an acorn style lug nut: 1) weld a steel cap over the end of the lug nut prior to chrome plating the entire lug nut, OR, 2) form a thin aluminum cap over the steel lug nut.

The first method is more expensive and adds weight to the vehicle. The second method is less expensive and lighter, but cause problems down the road, and that problem is referred to as swollen lug nuts.

What causes swollen lug nuts ?

Rust Jacking. As steel rusts forms, it expands outward with great force. Rust jacking develops enough force to distort the aluminum shell that was formed around the steel lug nut. At that point the 21mm socket not longer fits properly on the lug nut.

The shop is faced with using a lug nut removal socket which damages the stripped lug nut with cap lug nut or, in extreme cases, they must use a hammer and chisel to peel off the cap.

How to prevent swelling

There is no way to prevent capped lug nuts from rusting.

The only way to prevent lug nuts from rusting and swelling is to replace them with solid acorn lug nuts. Solid lug nuts are available online. Just make sure you buy the correct thread size and taper to fit your wheels.

How to remove swollen lug nuts

There are three ways to remove swollen lug nuts

Method 1— Buy half-sized sockets

Buy a 19.5mm or a 21.5mm socket to fit over the swollen lug nuts

Method 2 — Buy stripped lug nut removal sockets

Method 3 — Chisel off the formed cap and use a regular socket

Use a small cold chisel and ball peen hammer and chisel off the acorn cap. Then slice down the sides of the lug nut and peel the thin metal away from the hex nut until you can fit a socket over the steel lug nut.

There should be a recall or a lawsuit.

I ordered a lug nut buster (Irwin Tools 53911 Irwin Industrial Tool Co Extractor 17mm )

Scott Dunkley

1 post · Joined 2019

1. 8 · Jan 6, 2020 I just had to replace ALL of the lug bolts on my wifes 2017 renegade. The garage wouldnt rotate my tires. Every single oem lug bolt was swollen. I ordered a lug nut buster (Irwin Tools 53911 Irwin Industrial Tool Co Extractor 17mm ) and a set of 20 12x1.25 Wheel Lug 17mm Studs . I used a breaker bar to get them out. what a PITA. I live in the northeast, so lots of rain snow, ice, salt.

There should be a recall or a lawsuit.

Death Wobble

On a stock jeep you have to replace the steering stabilizer shock that you can only get through the jeep dealer.

Bad track bar mount - The bolt wiggles around inside the hole mounts for the track bar.

• tire rod ends
• steering stabilizer
• track bar bushings
• control arm bushings
• inspect tires
• rotate tires

The death wobble is a typical issue on these jeep and 9 out of 10 its the track bar .

But could be other steering and suspension parts .

Attached is a diagram of the parts you need to check .

Jeep with wheel in the direction of forward .then from under the front look at the parts i've marked with white arrows .

Now one needs to sit in the driver's seat and rock the steering wheel left and right , and you check the parts .

For further assistance with this issue please get back to me with the reply box below . This is not a one answer and done i will stay with you until the problem is sorted out . Please do not forget to leave positive feedback by clicking on the 3 to 5 stars at the top of your page, i'm not employees of the site and get no credit for spending time with you unless you leave positive feedback. Before rating 1 to 2 stars please get back to me as i'm here to help you, if i can't or you think i can't i will opt out or you can opt me out so another expert can. I want to help you with your problem and make you a happy motorist